re-learning to fit patterns

It has been AGES since I've had to really fit a pattern. I had a nice TNT method that worked well for most patterns (assuming they went up to a size 22). I would make a FBA, add a half inch to the length of the shoulder and an inch to the width of sleeves for two or three-piece sleeve patterns, increase the overall length by an inch and a half and in non one-piece sleeve patterns I would widen the upper arm portion. Some patterns I've never had to modify for size at all (such as my wedding dress, although plenty of other modifications were made). I've lost 50lbs since October and am finding now that I have to make totally different types of alterations. I've been working on the Simplicity 4698 jacket and even though I've made this jacket numerous times, now that I've gone from a RTW 22 to a 14, I decided to make a muslin.

Well, my muslin attempt didn't get too far off the ground because I was having a heck of a time making a decision on the size to start with. I don't really think I'll have to make ANY modifications and I can probably get away with a size 14 or 16, but I traced off the pattern in a 22 to be on the safe side. The only modifications I made to the original sizing was adding overall length to the front and back. I didn't make any width modifications to anything. I don't know what my deal is, but I just can't seem to come to terms with the fact that I'm not as big as I used to be.

I was hoping the muslin would actually be cut out today, but that's not going to happen as I realized I have a paper due in a week that I haven't actually started. Let me tell you, it was so difficult to get away from the cutting table to work on that paper. Fortunately, the paper is almost done and I can hopefully have the muslin cut out and the first fit done before the end of the week.

My re-fitting of this TNT pattern is this:
1. Cut out and sew together the size 22 muslin
2. Make whatever fitting adjustments need to be made to the jacket front and back only (I'm not worry about sleeves right now because I'm still deciding what kind of sleeves I want)
3. Once I get the fit perfected, I'll figure out the sleeves and get them perfected in the same way (I may need to draft a new sleeve altogether)
4. Mark the muslin and re-trace my pattern pieces. This will also help me definitively decide what size to make in the future :)
5. Cut out my stretch twill poppy fabric and make my first summer jacket!

I still have 25-30 more pounds to lose, but I think if I make this jacket just a little bit more snug than usual, I won't have to take it in too much when I get to my goal weight.

Read all posts on this project here.