my mojo is returning

It's been SO long since I've been in the sewing room. So long, in fact, that it has turned into a temporary storage room for my husband. Not for long!! He is in the process of returning my sewing room to me as I type this. My family and his parents are all going to be visiting this weekend, so we need the room, but it also happens to coincide with my mojo returning!!

I have been slowly starting to work on Christmas gifts for the family. This year I decided to make good use of the three new machines (embroidery, sewing and serger) that I have purchased in the past year and make most of the gifts we are giving to friends and family. I have been ramping up that, but I also need a dress for my company's upcoming holiday party. The party is December 12th and this is what I am leaning towards:



I'm going to start working on a muslin of view E and see if it works on me. I'm leaning towards a sapphire blue color, but I have no idea of the fabric yet.

OR I have several strapless "party dress" patterns with fuller skirts that may work, and for something like that I'd be looking for a cross-dyed sapphire/black with a black velvet or faux fur shrug.

Any other pattern ideas??? I definitely want something fun and I'm just not completely sold on the idea that the Roland Mouret knock-off will look as good on me as it does on so many others.

Next, I'll have some Christmas gifts to share and some possible SWAP ideas - the extended timeframe might actually make it possible for me to complete and I need some new work clothes.

I have a plan

But first, I have some completed garments to show off!!!

First up is my very first BWOF. I've had a subscription for a couple of years now, and haven't gotten around to making anything from it yet. I was especially inspired by a top in the July 2008 issue. Here is my version of BWOF 7/08 #118!

My husband - although I love him dearly - is not the best fashion photographer and this is really the best of all of the photos he took. Next time, I think I'll just go with the tripod and do it myself. It doesn't help anymore that I had just come home from work when this picture was taken.
Here is a picture of the top with the skirt made from the same geometric print. The skirt is New Look 6735:


Next, my first HP Cosmopolitan Dress. I love this dress, although there are several changes I need to make for my next version. I made this from a purple, gray, black and white floral from Gorgeous Fabrics. It's been sold out for some time, but I think she either has a red or blue colorway of the same print. I'd look to find out for sure, but I have an infant on my lap who desperately wants to type along, so I need to finish this as quick as possible :)


Friday was the opening of bow-hunting season so my husband left Thursday afternoon and is expected back sometime this evening. I decided to work from home Friday and got quite a bit of planning done in between projects. Saturday I cut out a dress from New Look 6779 in a black/gray houndstooth double knit from Gorgeous Fabrics, another New Look 6735 skirt from a black/off-white/green ITY, a New Look 6430 (apparently out of print and no longer on their site) top from the same ITY and I cut out and finished this New Look 6470 top:


I bought this ITY from Fashion Fabrics Club and they advertised it as aqua. It even photographs as an aqua, but in reality, it's more of a kelly green. According to Pantone, it's called Fir (18-5621). It worked out perfectly because I thought it was going to be used with my brown/aqua wardrobe but ended up matching the green in a black/off-white/green leaf print ITY that I bought in the same order. I made view A without the sleeves. Here is a side view of the tie for the band:


I also have the Vogue alice+olivia pants planned from a charcoal RPL from Gorgeous Fabrics as well as a really cool gray herringbone tweed with little metallic colored threads woven in that I bought at Joann's.

new Vogues

I was reading Carolyn's blog and she was showing off her most recent Vogue pattern purchases along with information about their $6.99 sale. I get the emails, but sometimes get too busy to look at them and because I don't really spend enough on patterns, have not joined Club BMV yet.

With that said, I must say some of Carolyn's choices *forced* me to go to Vogue's website and pick up a few for myself. Here are my choices that should be on their way to me any day:


The famous Alice + Olivia pants that I've been drooling over for months


I love this dress and already have a couple of possible fabrics in mind for it


I really like the style of this cardigan and I definitely need more of them for work when the A/C gets cranked up!


I like the jacket, but I LOVE the skirt!


I'm not sure about this jacket - I think it might make me look like I'm wearing football pads, but I like the details on the pants - and I definitely need to make some pants!


I like the pleats and while I probably won't make this as-is, I think it has a lot of potential.

a big fat wadder...

Last weekend I made a skirt (I still need to photograph and post it) that was part of my original JCC plan (brown/aqua color scheme). I wanted to wear it to work earlier this week but needed some sort of top to go with it. Since I was short on time and even shorter on fabric, I decided to make a shrug. I used McCalls 5236


I made view E (lower right corner of the picture) without the ribbon tie. Well, let's just say I attempted. I'm not sure if I shifted something when I cut out the sleeve but there is way too much ease! I used a brown jersey and even with the strechiness of the fabric there was still too much ease in the cap!! I ended up having to gather the sleeve to fit it in and then it just looked silly. I'm not sure it's worth making a muslin for a basic shrug and since I have another 4 or 5 shrug patterns in my collection I think I'll go back to Hancock and pray they have more brown jersey (I used the fabric that was originally earmarked for trim on my Cosmo dress that has yet to be made) so I can make another one. Maybe this time I'll use one that is specifically designed for knits and not a "woven or knit". I am so disgusted I don't even want to take a picture...

Great Coat Sew-Along

I decided early last week to join the Great Coat Sew-Along that Marji is hosting. Boy am I glad I signed up when I did - if it's not closed to new participants already, it will be very soon!! The response has been amazing and I feel honored to be a part of this project along with so many great sewists!

I had originally planned a post with my possibilities and was going to open up for suggestions. I wanted to use fabrics and patterns already in my collection so I started digging through boxes and drawers of fabric and found a bunch of possibilities. Patterns, however, I am lacking somewhat as I only had 4 coat patterns, including the Vogue Michael Kors that several of my counterparts are making. This was the coat I was most leaning towards, but (with some input from my husband) decided on this:


Wool blend purchased from Fashionista Fabrics. I'll be using McCalls 5247 View C (the version in red on the pattern envelope):


I also hope to make a coat for my hubby at the same time. I bought some charcoal melton almost 2 years ago with the intention of making him a dress coat for winter. It's still rolled up in the original package it was mailed in! I don't have a picture, but it's very dark - almost black - and heathered (good to hide dog hair). I plan to make Burda 8275 shortened to mid-thigh length:

another Simplicity 3881

I really love this pattern!! I have made this 3 times now and have a couple more planned. It's a very flattering style on me - slim up top and flared at the bottom. This fabric came from Gorgeous Fabrics. I don't remember what it's called, I bought it last summer, but I LOVE it! It's difficult to match up the flowers, so I did the best I could. It looked sort of strange at the seam where the top of the skirt meets the peplum, so I added a piece of 5/8" grosgrain ribbon that I had in my stash to break it up a little. I really love this.

On another note, today I purchased the Hot Patterns Weekender Jean Jeanius Trouser Jeans pattern. I've been eyeing this pattern for a while and on a recent trip to Joann's I found a couple of great pieces of medium-weight denim that I have in mind. I am going to attempt to recreate a pair of maternity jeans (only non-maternity) that I fell in love with.

planning a challenge...

is much different than actually undertaking the challenge! But, I digress. I am looking forward to the unplanned renovations in the house being done so that I can start working on some of the projects I have waiting on the back burner as well as some ideas that have been percolating.

One of the things that I was really thinking about, was doing a sort of SWAP-style plan for my maternity wardrobe. This is no more. I have two really cute dresses, jeans, slacks and some cute, simple tops. My mom is making me some additional tops and a couple pairs of slacks. I already have several of the longer sweaters that were trendy last winter that will work really well over the swelling belly and since we are approaching cooler weather that will prevail throughout the rest of my pregnancy, I'll probably be OK with a few more filler items...but what I'm really coveting are jackets and coats.

In addition to the Simplicity 4954 jacket from that great pink and black boucle I mentioned in this post, I'm also contemplating several others. I love coats and jackets and have more than one rationalization for wanting to make several. The first reason is that I practically froze to death last winter. It was the first winter in several years where it got in the single-digits (although it's frequently near the freezing mark). The second reason is that so far, the majority of my maternity clothes are summery t-shirts and shells. This is fine when it's 90 degrees outside, but when it starts hitting the 40s and 50s, a light sweater just won't do the trick anymore. Add this to the fact that I love layering, and you see where I have a need for jackets and coats. I figure if my maternity clothes are on the plain side, I can easily dress anything up with a great jacket or coat...and the best part is I can wear them after the baby is born because I don't plan on making maternity jackets. I may make one coat that can be fully fastened, but I don't want something that's obviously maternity - I want something that I can wear pregnant or not.

With all of this said, here is my current working list of jackets/coats that I really really like:

Simplicity 4791 (OOP):

I really like both the jacket and the longer coat. I have two great pieces of faux suede in camel and navy that would look great as either coat. I really envision the shorter coat out of leather or suede and the longer coat out of a tweedy wool.

Simplicity 4033:

My favorite cut from this pattern is the longer tan version on the far left. I really see this in a velvet or cotton velveteen with a brocade-style trim. I also have a heavy black poly/cotton jacquard that this would be great in - especially with either a rainbow or blue swirled silk I have in the stash as a lining.

Simplicity 4403:

My favorite views are the pink and green views on the right side of the photo. I have a chocolate brown velveteen that this would look great in, and I have a matching remnant of faux fur that would make a great collar. I would also really like this in a pink or royal purple wool. A friend of mine has this fabulous jacket made of what I call "Muppet fur". It's a bright purple shaggy fur coat that is very similar in cut and style to this jacket. It's such a fun jacket I could see making this out of a funky faux fur as well.

McCalls 5247:

This is very similar to Simplicity 4403. I obviously wouldn't make both, but both patterns have their merits. In the end, for me, I think S4403 probably will beat out this one.

Simplicity 4084:

I love a classic trench coat. This would be great in either a classic twill, or I really think it would be wonderful in a solid-colored brocade or jacquard fabric. The black rose-print jacquard I have in my stash would be perfect...if I made it from a fabric that could handle the treatment, I would definitely want to pre-treat the fabric with a water repellent. This would make it perfect for those drizzly or rainy days when wearing a wool coat is out of the question.

McCalls 5190:

I would love this in corduroy....a hot pink corduroy. I love girly-looking military style jackets and this definitely fits the bill. This would also be smashing in denim (of course) or even velvet. Could you imagine how fun it would be to have a velvet military-style jacket??? Ok, maybe it's just me!

Talea coat from burdastyle.com:

I can't say how much I LOVE LOVE LOVE this coat! It has all sorts of great military styling with trench coat syling and a big collar...not that I need to justify why I love this coat. I plan on making it in a camel-colored wool. I know, I know, how original...but in my own defense, I had envisioned a coat VERY similar to this in camel wool before I even found this pattern. I had figured I would have to take a different pattern and modify the heck out of it to get what I wanted...and then I found this and it was practically perfect.

BWOF 8/07 #111A - the jacket cape:

I'm not sure this will look that great on me - and it's a definite no while I'm pregnant - but I love it anyway. If this is still something that will work in the spring, I may make it then...but oh how I love it in the black...

So that is my wish-list for right now. In addition to the jacket challenge I'm setting before myself, does anyone know of any good resources for sewing leather? This is something I have never done by machine and am interested in any books that anyone can recommend on the subject. Specifically, I would like to make a leather jacket. I'm too tall and my arms are too long to find anything that fits in RTW leather styles I like so I would really like to make my own.

re-learning to fit patterns

It has been AGES since I've had to really fit a pattern. I had a nice TNT method that worked well for most patterns (assuming they went up to a size 22). I would make a FBA, add a half inch to the length of the shoulder and an inch to the width of sleeves for two or three-piece sleeve patterns, increase the overall length by an inch and a half and in non one-piece sleeve patterns I would widen the upper arm portion. Some patterns I've never had to modify for size at all (such as my wedding dress, although plenty of other modifications were made). I've lost 50lbs since October and am finding now that I have to make totally different types of alterations. I've been working on the Simplicity 4698 jacket and even though I've made this jacket numerous times, now that I've gone from a RTW 22 to a 14, I decided to make a muslin.

Well, my muslin attempt didn't get too far off the ground because I was having a heck of a time making a decision on the size to start with. I don't really think I'll have to make ANY modifications and I can probably get away with a size 14 or 16, but I traced off the pattern in a 22 to be on the safe side. The only modifications I made to the original sizing was adding overall length to the front and back. I didn't make any width modifications to anything. I don't know what my deal is, but I just can't seem to come to terms with the fact that I'm not as big as I used to be.

I was hoping the muslin would actually be cut out today, but that's not going to happen as I realized I have a paper due in a week that I haven't actually started. Let me tell you, it was so difficult to get away from the cutting table to work on that paper. Fortunately, the paper is almost done and I can hopefully have the muslin cut out and the first fit done before the end of the week.

My re-fitting of this TNT pattern is this:
1. Cut out and sew together the size 22 muslin
2. Make whatever fitting adjustments need to be made to the jacket front and back only (I'm not worry about sleeves right now because I'm still deciding what kind of sleeves I want)
3. Once I get the fit perfected, I'll figure out the sleeves and get them perfected in the same way (I may need to draft a new sleeve altogether)
4. Mark the muslin and re-trace my pattern pieces. This will also help me definitively decide what size to make in the future :)
5. Cut out my stretch twill poppy fabric and make my first summer jacket!

I still have 25-30 more pounds to lose, but I think if I make this jacket just a little bit more snug than usual, I won't have to take it in too much when I get to my goal weight.

Read all posts on this project here.

isn't this cute?

So I was browsing the spring fashions on MSN a few weeks ago and happened upon this dress by BCBG Max Azria that can be found here.
I absolutely fell in love with it and went on a trip to JoAnns looking for just the right eyelet border fabric to make this with. Just my luck, they were having a sale on eyelet for $4.99/yd. Sadly, the ONE that was PERFECT for this dress was $16/yd and the only one not on sale. Because I didn't have enough time to look for a suitable pattern to make my own knockoff, I decided that it wasn't the right time to find the fabric. I would need to figure out the yardages for any pattern anyway and it would be my luck that I would buy 3 yards and need another 2 for more border...and then, of course, they would be out. I'm sure I can find some great border eyelet online or at Hancock across town, where I can easily special-order anything they don't have in stock.
Today, while browsing at patterns online, I happened across what just might be the perfect pattern to make this dress with Simplicity 3831:It's from their Spring 2007 line. I would have to look more closely at the pattern, but I think the styling would be a great fit to get something that looked very similar. For the sleeves, I would do something similar to Simplicity 4116:I would use a sleeve similar to the photo of the yellow dress...although I may end up drafting the sleeve myself. Now to find the perfect fabric...